PARIS— Rick Owens, the iconoclastic designer often dubbed fashion’s “prince of darkness,” has spent decades challenging norms with his stark, avant-garde aesthetic. From gothic motifs to raw, primal silhouettes, his work embraces the shadows—a deliberate contrast to what he calls the “Disney World” of sanitized luxury. “I acknowledge discomfort, mortality, threat,” Owens told CNN in an exclusive interview ahead of his Spring-Summer 2022 show at Paris Fashion Week. “Yeah, it’s dark compared to Disney. I’m fine with that.”
A Rebel With a Cult Following
Born in California to a Mexican mother and raised in conservative Porterville, Owens launched his label in Los Angeles in 1994 before relocating to Paris in 2003 with his partner and creative collaborator, Michèle Lamy. Today, his brand—still independently owned—generates hundreds of millions annually, spanning clothing, furniture, and collaborations. Despite industry acclaim, including a CFDA Lifetime Achievement Award, Owens remains a self-described “dark horse,” even as his designs attract A-listers like Rihanna, Kim Kardashian, and Timothée Chalamet.
Provocation as Philosophy
Owens’ collections fuse brutality and beauty: blistered leathers, skeletal silhouettes, and glittering sequins coexist in what he calls a “smarter beauty.” His 2013 decision to feature step teams instead of traditional models predated fashion’s diversity reckoning, while a 2015 show—where a model controversially held a sign reading “Please Kill Angela Merkel Not”—sparked debates about performative shock. Owens denies orchestrating the latter but stands by his instinct to disrupt. “I operate on rage,” he admits. “This is my revenge.”
Post-Pandemic Power Plays
For SS22’s Fogachine collection, Owens staged a triumphant return to Paris after pandemic-era shows in his Venetian penthouse. The lineup featured his signatures: sheer, elongated tops, python boots, and tulle dresses embroidered with raven feathers—all radiating what he describes as “elegant-yet-menacing” energy. Yet Owens remains wary of fashion’s post-COVID grandstanding. “Everyone wants to flex, to pretend we’re invincible,” he mused. “But that’s the game. People want to believe we’re in control.”
With a smirk, he added: “They’ll always prefer the illusion.”
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