After a six-year pause, Stockholm Fashion Week returned in June with a renewed energy and a new generation of brands defining Sweden’s style future. From Acne Studios to Toteme to Our Legacy, Stockholm has long nurtured labels that successfully blend minimalist elegance with practical appeal. This year’s event introduced a fresh cohort of designers with shared values—clean aesthetics, attention to detail, and an unwavering commitment to sustainability—while each faces challenges of production limitations, market volatility, and the pressures of standing out in a saturated scene.
Three standout brands from the schedule—Leoní, Past Tense, and Deadwood—showcased what the new Stockholm fashion guard has to offer.
Leoní: A Delicate Balance Between Minimalism and Sophistication
Leoní, a recent entrant on the scene, attracted attention with a well-attended presentation that included local influencers and buyers from global retailers like Net-a-Porter. Founded in 2024 by Filippa Fuxe, a graduate of Beckmans design school, and business veteran Nathalie Schuterman, Leoní quickly carved a space in the market by combining aesthetic precision with commercial savvy.
The brand began under the Nathalie Schuterman Group before becoming independent in August 2024. In early 2025, it secured funding from both a venture capital firm and Swedish entrepreneur Stefan Palm’s holding company, Bucky Studios. Over a 10-month period, Leoní generated SEK 1.5 million (€136,885) in revenue, with a 156% rise in Q2 sales compared to Q1.
Leoní’s collection was presented amid antique art and ceramics at auction house Bukowskis. It featured flowing silk tops, raw-hemmed leather skirts, and cardigans, with models dressing one another onstage—a symbolic gesture underscoring intimacy, utility, and adaptability. Fuxe and Schuterman emphasized their focus on inner garment craftsmanship, aiming to distinguish themselves from the sea of minimalist labels. Their pieces ranged from €200 silk tank tops to leather jackets priced just under €1,800, targeting women aged 30 to 50 who appreciate refined, timeless pieces with subtle twists.
Production remains a challenge. A recent road trip through Sweden revealed limited local manufacturing options. However, Fuxe and Schuterman remain committed to regional production where possible. With Schuterman’s established network and retail expertise, Leoní is poised for expansion. The brand is set to present in Paris later this month and again during Fashion Week in October, with an eye on gaining wholesale accounts. Currently available only via its e-commerce platform, Leoní aims to eventually open a flagship store in Paris or London.
Past Tense: Menswear With Seasonal Storytelling and Subtle Playfulness
Founded in 2023 by Victor Lindh and Adrien Forray, Past Tense draws inspiration from the emotional rhythms of Swedish life. Lindh, a design alumnus of Neil Barrett, Axel Arigato, and Norse Projects, teamed up with Forray, who has held roles at LVMH, Kering, and Axel Arigato. Their latest collection captured the fleeting Swedish summer—beginning with dark suits evoking the long winter, then shifting into breezy resortwear symbolizing summer’s liberation.
The presentation featured tactile elements like sailor duffle bags, cotton shirts, and leather slides, portraying a journey from gloom to lightness. Lindh characterized his target as the classic Scandinavian man, infused with an undercurrent of curiosity. Past Tense’s pricing ranges from €70 for logo caps to €900 for leather overshirts.
In 2024, the brand generated €150,000 in revenue, divided equally between direct-to-consumer (DTC), wholesale, and creative consultancy services. For 2025, it anticipates 75% sales growth, driven largely by an expected doubling of wholesale revenue. Currently backed by nine industry-connected investors, the brand leverages this network to solve operational hurdles.
Past Tense stands apart by subtly reinventing classics. For instance, labels on blazer sleeves are lightly stitched so customers can remove them—an understated twist that adds depth for discerning wearers without alienating the mainstream. The brand is committed to wholesale as a foundational model, counting 10 stockists, including Illum in Copenhagen and The Icon in Amsterdam, and aims to double that number by Spring/Summer 2026.
Lindh views wholesale as not only a revenue stream but also a form of marketing and brand education, allowing new customers to feel fabrics and examine construction in person. With upcoming showrooms planned for Paris Fashion Week and a trade event in Copenhagen, the brand is also eyeing a permanent Stockholm showroom that could serve as both display and workspace.
Deadwood: Sustainability Meets Subversive Leather Design
Deadwood stood out at Stockholm Fashion Week with its bold and gritty designs. Founded in 2012 by Carl Ollson and Felix von Bahder, the brand started as a retail store before evolving into a label known for reworking vintage leather into modern, slim-cut jackets. Prices span from €300 for pants to €2,700 for showpiece outerwear.
After seasons of presenting in Copenhagen, Deadwood returned to its hometown, energized by the opportunity to reconnect with local audiences. The duo produced a pre-spring 2026 collection in just five weeks, balancing the urgency of the moment with thematic depth. Drawing inspiration from artificial intelligence and humanity’s role in a machine-driven world, von Bahder created a narrative of transformation. One standout look—a skirt composed of 13 leather jackets—celebrated the brand’s 13-year journey.
Although the next Stockholm edition remains uncertain due to funding, Deadwood intends to continue showing biannually in Copenhagen and annually in Stockholm. While the brand feels slightly like an outsider in Copenhagen, von Bahder appreciates the Stockholm show as a kind of “funky homecoming.”
With 12 global stockists—including Ssense, Hypebeast, Highsnobiety, and several Japanese and Korean boutiques—Deadwood maintains a modest wholesale presence. Direct-to-consumer, however, is prioritized due to the brand’s reliance on small-batch production and upcycled materials. This model allows for unique, limited collections and more personal engagement with customers.
The founders are considering collaborations, particularly in footwear, with Dr. Martens on their wishlist. Despite facing a post-pandemic slowdown—after several years of booming sales between 2018 and 2022—Deadwood has recalibrated. Sales plateaued, but the team adapted by cutting costs and staying lean. Von Bahder says the experience has made the brand more resilient: “Once you’ve looked over the edge, it’s not so scary the next time.”
The return of Stockholm Fashion Week marked not just a revival of the city’s fashion calendar, but also a coming-of-age moment for its next generation of designers. Leoní, Past Tense, and Deadwood each represent distinct facets of this movement—feminine sophistication, playful minimalism, and sustainable rebellion.
Despite shared challenges, from production hurdles to maintaining identity in a minimalist-saturated landscape, these brands exemplify the innovation, agility, and creative conviction propelling Stockholm’s fashion scene into its next era. Whether through delicate craftsmanship, smart business strategies, or bold upcycling, this new guard signals a stylish and sustainable future for Scandinavian design.
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