The Vivienne Westwood brand has experienced an especially dynamic few weeks. Earlier this month, the fashion house presented a striking runway show in Mumbai, casting only local talent and showcasing the brand’s signature draped and deconstructed silhouettes, this time rendered in traditional Indian textiles. Soon after, the team headed to Barcelona for the city’s bridal fashion week, where they introduced their first standalone bridal show. According to Andrea Kronthaler, this was a natural progression for the house. He explained to Vogue that the bridal business has grown significantly, prompting the need for a more structured and dedicated presence. As a result, Westwood’s London boutique on Davies Street has been converted into an exclusive wedding retail space, while a full floor in the Milan store now caters solely to bridalwear. Further expansions are anticipated in the near future.
Amid this whirlwind of activity—including the Paris runway presentation of the more avant-garde Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood line—the release of the Fall 2025 main line lookbook could have seemed secondary. Instead, it presents a carefully curated insight into the strategic direction of the brand. The collection remains true to the hallmark designs that attract the label’s loyal clientele, such as plaid patterns, corseted bodices, asymmetric draping, and classic Harris tweed. However, it also introduces subtle innovations, particularly in the realm of sportswear. This category has become increasingly significant following last year’s popular collaboration with London skate brand Palace. Standout pieces this season include a draped, hooded jacket made from a shimmering technical fabric that the brand first utilized in the 1980s, as well as uniquely shaped separates crafted from treated denim.
The main line has also become a canvas for revisiting and reinterpreting iconic looks from Westwood’s storied past. Drawing upon an extensive in-house archive, the team has revived styles with a modern sensibility. Some pieces subtly reference earlier collections, such as slashed poplin and taffeta garments inspired by the 1991 “Cut, Slash, and Pull” collection, or a logo variation recalling the Hollywood-style lettering created for a Los Angeles store launch in 2011. Yet despite these nostalgic nods, the overall collection leans firmly into the future.
Central to this forward-thinking vision is a renewed synergy within the Westwood design teams. Drawing clear lines of connection between this collection and the pieces shown in Kronthaler’s Paris show last month, elements like exaggerated, ankle-grazing neckties, quilted velvet fencing jackets, and the recurring black-and-yellow tartan were deliberately echoed. According to the main line design director, there is now more collaboration than ever among the teams working within the Westwood atelier in southwest London, allowing for a unified design language that strengthens the brand’s identity across all lines.
Since Vivienne Westwood’s passing in 2022, the future of the brand she built has been a subject of speculation. Would it embrace Kronthaler’s bolder design instincts or veer toward commercial security? Observing this year’s collections, it’s apparent that the brand has struck a thoughtful balance. There’s a clear effort to appeal to both adventurous and traditional customers alike, offering daring new designs alongside refined versions of Westwood staples. Now, with an expanding bridal division that challenges the norms of traditional wedding fashion, the brand continues to broaden its appeal. Within the ever-evolving world of Vivienne Westwood, there is now something for everyone.
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