“[Yukio Akamine] never changes, but he keeps evolving,” notes Eisuke Yamashita from Monocle Japan. Born in Tokyo’s Meguro district in 1944, Akamine is far more than a staple in menswear—he is its enduring master. Since launching his first brand, WAY-OUT, at the age of 28, Akamine has steadily crafted a legacy of elegance rooted in timeless sophistication.
Now in his eighties, he continues to command attention at global menswear events like Pitti Uomo, which he’s been attending since its eighth edition. Akamine’s style transcends age and geography. His ability to evolve while remaining authentic has captivated generations, including Japanese high school students who admire his sartorial flair on platforms like YouTube and Instagram. His latest project, a book titled Yukio Akamine’s Style: Dressing, Living, offers readers a visual and philosophical guide to his approach to style, complete with vivid photographs of his signature looks.
Akamine attributes his stylistic foundation to his family. His father, a geographer and kendo practitioner, instilled in him a strong sense of Japanese identity. Meanwhile, his uncle Ikutaro, a sociologist, favored Western-inspired fashion, often donning navy blazers, grey trousers, and red socks. This duality shaped Akamine’s worldview and approach to dressing. His mother added another layer, crafting handmade garments—often in Akamine’s favorite navy blue—contributing to his deep appreciation for craftsmanship and color.
In 1972, Akamine launched WAY-OUT, a brand that deliberately broke away from Japan’s mainstream styles of the time, dominated by labels like Van Jacket and inspired by Brooks Brothers. His goal was to create classic garments that existed beyond social norms, thus justifying the brand’s subversive name. Later, he would expand this vision with Glenover, a brand rooted in traditional aesthetics and named to evoke a sense of timeless natural beauty.
Outside of Japan, Italy is where Akamine feels most at home. “Rome, rich in history and natural beauty, resonates deeply with me,” he shares. Having visited 19 of Italy’s 20 provinces and made over 300 trips, Akamine considers the country a second home. His friendship with Antonio Liverano of Liverano & Liverano in Florence spans four decades and is built on a mutual passion for mentoring younger generations. Liverano praises Akamine for his instinctive sense of color and pattern, calling his talent innate.
Yamashita echoes this admiration, emphasizing Akamine’s wide-ranging knowledge of both Western tailoring and traditional Japanese crafts. This dual expertise, he says, is central to Akamine’s unique style.
Akamine’s style is understated yet rich in texture and detail. From luxurious knits to tailored jackets, each garment is a quiet statement in refined neutrality. Unlike the flashy, logo-driven direction some corners of menswear have taken, Akamine’s philosophy rejects conspicuous wealth. “Luxury brands that flaunt wealth feel vulgar to me,” he says. “I admire spiritual richness over material abundance.”
Today, Akamine runs Incontro, the company behind his tailoring label, Akamine Royal Line. The brand draws inspiration from the natural colors of Japan’s four seasons and the classic silhouettes of 1920s and 1930s Western fashion. Crafted for Japan’s humid climate, these garments are made with high-twist yarns and tightly woven weft fabrics using vintage shuttle looms. The construction process combines handwork with precise machine techniques, executed by skilled artisans.
According to Akamine, Japanese style has always been shaped by outside influences—from British and French tailoring to American casualwear and Italian refinement. He traces this evolution back to the Industrial Revolution, which catalyzed textile development across Europe. Japan, still in the Edo period during this time, opened to the world in the 1860s with the Meiji Restoration. The emperor adopted British military attire, symbolizing the nation’s embrace of Western aesthetics. Yet, Akamine believes Japan has not yet formed a truly distinctive national style. “Through Akamine Royal Line, I explore global fashion to help define what Japanese style can become.”
In Yukio Akamine’s Style: Dressing, Living, the designer shares not only his fashion sensibilities but his way of life. He urges readers to value natural fabrics—wool, mohair, linen, and cotton—and to dress in a way that adapts across seasons. “80% of dressing well depends on the wearer,” he states, emphasizing mindset over materials. “It’s about the life they aspire to live.”
Akamine encourages immersion in culture to develop lasting personal style. His cultural influences are rich and diverse, including films like Tokyo Story by Yasujiro Ozu, 8½ by Federico Fellini, and Death in Venice by Luchino Visconti. He also treasures the writings of philosopher Muneyoshi Yanagi, who emphasized beauty as a silent, universal language. “Beautiful things are beautiful,” Akamine quotes. “Beauty has no home.”
For Akamine, beauty starts from within. His daily life reflects his style philosophy—disciplined, serene, and intentional. He rises at 5 a.m., stretches, and jogs by the Tama River before visiting a shrine to pray for a peaceful day. “I try to spend the rest of my day with a smile,” he says.
His social media presence mirrors this harmony: filled with candid videos and warm interactions, it offers a glimpse into the joyful, contemplative world of a man who has not only shaped fashion—but also how one lives beautifully.
Yukio Akamine stands as a living example of grace, purpose, and enduring style. His clothes may be classic, but his vision is ever-evolving. As he continues to influence future generations through his designs, teachings, and new book, his message remains clear: fashion is not about wealth or trends, but about spirit, heritage, and the thoughtful pursuit of beauty.
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