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Paris Menswear Season to Welcome Saint Laurent’s Return and New Voices like Kartik Research

by Demos

The upcoming Paris menswear season, set to unfold from Tuesday, June 24, through Sunday, June 29, marks a significant moment for the global fashion stage with the much-anticipated return of Saint Laurent. After several seasons of absence from the official Paris menswear schedule, the Kering-owned fashion house will rejoin the lineup with a show on the opening day, scheduled just hours before Louis Vuitton, the largest brand under the LVMH umbrella. Saint Laurent’s reappearance is notable, given the brand’s previous preference for hosting menswear events during Paris haute couture week or in locations outside of France, including Italy and the United States.

The six-day season promises a diverse and dynamic roster, as revealed by the provisional calendar released by the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode (FHCM), the official body that governs French fashion. Alongside Saint Laurent, fashion aficionados can expect new runway contributions from major names like Craig Green, Dries Van Noten, Études Studio, and Wales Bonner. Adding to the fresh energy is the debut of Kartik Research, a newcomer creating buzz ahead of the season. In a historic first, the Institut Français de la Mode (IFM), one of Paris’ leading fashion institutions, will host its inaugural joint show during the menswear calendar.

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Several other designers and brands will make their first French presentations this season, including Camiel Fortgens, CamperLab, and P. Andrade. At the same time, Bed J.W. Ford, Bode, Mr. Saturday, and Namesake are set to return with live shows. Altogether, the official calendar comprises 40 runway shows and 30 presentations, underscoring a vibrant and multifaceted fashion week.

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The Sphere showroom initiative, hosted at Palais de Tokyo and supported by FHCM, will introduce two rising talents—Mouty and Victor Clavelly—while welcoming back five notable brands: Cachí, La Cage, C.R.E.O.L.E., Lazoschmidl, and Ouest Paris. The week will also feature powerhouse names such as Dior Homme and Hermès, avant-garde pioneers like Comme des Garçons, Yohji Yamamoto, and Rick Owens, and contemporary labels such as Willy Chavarria, AMI, and Kolor, ensuring a mix of traditional and trendsetting perspectives.

Pascal Morand, the Executive President of FHCM, explained Paris Fashion Week’s enduring magnetism. According to him, its appeal is rooted in the presence of iconic houses and groundbreaking emerging designers, supported by a comprehensive ecosystem of professionals ranging from buyers and journalists to stylists and visual artists. He emphasized that Paris’ rich history in the arts, its dynamic cultural and economic environment, and the meticulous planning by the Federation contribute significantly to its global allure.

Morand expressed particular excitement about the return of brands like Saint Laurent and Wales Bonner and welcomed newcomers such as Kartik Research to the runway format. He stressed that the real strength of Paris Fashion Week lies in the diversity of styles and creative visions represented, from established luxury houses to trailblazing new designers.

On the question of balancing runway shows and presentations, Morand clarified that FHCM’s focus lies not on increasing runway numbers but on ensuring each brand uses the format best suited to its identity. The post-pandemic era has seen both presentations and runway shows included in a single, unified calendar, allowing for flexibility and relevance in how collections are showcased. The menswear committee plays an active role in maintaining a careful balance between the two.

Economically, the Paris menswear season delivers considerable benefits. Beyond driving sales, it enhances the international stature and attractiveness of Paris and France as fashion capitals. The event contributes to employment across fashion houses and the surrounding creative industries. The media influence is another critical dimension, with measurable economic effects. Morand cited data from Launchmetrics showing a sharp increase in Media Impact Value (MIV): $303.6 million for Autumn/Winter 2025–2026 and $278.3 million for Spring/Summer 2024, up significantly from $50 million in 2022.

Estimating attendance, Morand mentioned that approximately 5,500 people typically converge on Paris for menswear week. This figure includes designers, support staff, buyers, journalists, press agents, production teams, influencers, celebrities, and other creative professionals. The broad spectrum of participants underscores the event’s scale and its importance within the global fashion calendar.

In supporting young designers, FHCM continues to invest in a variety of initiatives. These include direct financial grants—made possible through DEFI for French brands and the Federation’s own Fund for Emerging Brands for international labels—and the ongoing organization of the Sphere showroom at Palais de Tokyo. This platform provides designers with essential exposure and the opportunity to engage with industry stakeholders. FHCM also helps young talents find affordable venues and offers seminars led by internal experts and external professionals to aid in their development.

Morand addressed the growing presence of fans outside show venues, acknowledging it as a reflection of Paris Fashion Week’s expanding global reach and heightened celebrity draw. While this adds excitement, it also presents logistical challenges. FHCM works closely with the Préfecture de Police and show organizers to ensure safety. They have communicated the importance of crowd management and distributed a detailed security guide to all participating houses.

With an impressive roster of returning fashion giants, promising debutants, and institutional support for new talents, the upcoming Paris menswear season stands poised to offer a rich and varied showcase. As the city braces for another round of fashion festivities, Paris reaffirms its status as a critical nexus in the global fashion ecosystem.

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