Conner Ives’ Playful Designs Strike a Powerful Chord with Black Women in Fashion

by Demos

Conner Ives, the acclaimed London-based designer, has found an enthusiastic following among Black women who are drawn to the authenticity, storytelling, and purpose embedded in his work. Known for his playful personality and grounded approach, Ives is making waves not just for his aesthetic but for the thoughtful values his brand represents.

In a recent conversation, Ives revealed himself as a self-described “yapper,” someone who approaches both life and fashion with a sense of humor and clarity. His creative mantra, “if you build it they will come,” inspired by the 1980s film Field of Dreams, has driven his career since childhood. At eight years old, he told his sister he would one day work with Rihanna—an ambition that has since come true.

Beneath his charismatic demeanor lies a designer with a clear vision. Ives is redefining fashion by centering Black women not as passive muses, but as active collaborators and cultural influencers. His use of upcycled materials aligns with a broader commitment to sustainability and storytelling. His garments emphasize identity, emotion, and intention over fleeting trends.

Born in New York in 1996, Ives studied at Central Saint Martins in London. He first gained industry recognition in 2017 after designing a repurposed T-shirt gown for British model Adwoa Aboah at the Met Gala. This moment marked the beginning of a career rooted in reinvention and conscious design.

Ives recently won the prestigious 2025 BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund. Despite the recognition, he remains cautious about industry pressures. He actively resists creative stagnation. “The second I hear something like, ‘You did a lot of this that worked really well last season, do more of that,’ I just go in the absolute opposite direction. It feels stifling for creativity,” he stated.

This desire for continual evolution helps explain the emotional resonance of his clothes. Unlike many designers who use garments merely as statements, Ives sees clothing as a narrative tool. This storytelling approach resonates deeply with Black women, who have long viewed fashion as both a cultural and political expression.

One of Ives’ earliest affirmations of success came full circle when Rihanna, the artist he admired as a child, noticed his work. After she publicly supported the dress he made for Aboah, she later invited him to collaborate on her Fenty line—an invitation he described as a “full-circle moment.” Since then, his designs have appeared on high-profile figures like actress Taylor Russell and British Vogue editor Chioma Nnadi.

When asked about the Black women who influence his design process, Ives named stylist Amanda Murray, along with Rihanna, Beyoncé, and many women in his personal circle. “The women around me have shaped the way I design. They’re my sounding board and my filter,” he said.

The effect of that influence is tangible. Content creator Mikai McDermott described feeling “feminine, powerful, and flirty” in Ives’ clothes. Her first purchase—a patchwork dress made of deadstock vintage T-shirts—embodied Ives’ signature blend of nostalgia and innovation.

Style writer Morenike Ajayi also appreciates Ives’ attention to the female form, citing pieces like his shirred basketball jersey shirt as examples of his ability to rework clothing for a woman’s body. She noted that his designs reflect a sensitivity born from observing how real women dress and find confidence in clothing.

Brand consultant Summer Ruddock-Ellis connected to Ives’ use of raw materials and cultural references. His work reminded her of her grandmother, a Jamaican seamstress who transformed limited resources into bold fashion statements. She likened Ives’ creativity to the ingenuity found in dancehall culture.

Marketing consultant Sharla Farrell recalled being instantly captivated when Rihanna wore Ives’ blue dress featuring the phrase “I’m retired.” The virality of that piece exemplified how Black women often set trends in digital spaces like Instagram and TikTok. “Black women have always innovated out of necessity,” Farrell said. “That’s what Conner’s work taps into—not by mimicking, but by listening.”

As demand for Ives’ designs has increased, so have the challenges. At one point, his studio was producing 600 to 700 pieces per season. But bulk sourcing of vintage T-shirts led to complications, including the accidental inclusion of offensive graphics. These missteps prompted a major pivot in his production strategy.

Ives decided to scale back in favor of curated, limited releases that prioritized quality over quantity. He also reevaluated what sustainability truly means in fashion. “Sustainability isn’t just about using vintage or saying the right words,” he explained. For him, it also involves understanding the limits of production. He prefers selling out of a design rather than overproducing. “I’ve been letting go of the idea that more is better,” he added.

What sets Ives apart is not just his talent or ambition, but his intuition. He designs from a place of curiosity, memory, and a deep respect for the women who inspire him. His garments may begin with repurposed materials, but they carry layers of emotional and cultural depth.

In reflecting on the impact he hopes his work has, Ives shared a final thought: “That it’s for everyone. I think that’s almost been the workshop of having this brand for the last five years.” His goal has been to make fashion that feels accessible, meaningful, and rooted in real values.

In an industry that often prizes speed, spectacle, and hype, Conner Ives chooses to remain grounded. Through slogan tees, repurposed fabrics, and genuine connection, he reminds the world that sometimes, fashion doesn’t have to be that deep—yet in doing so, he creates something profoundly powerful.

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