Italy is set to launch the menswear fashion season despite growing uncertainty surrounding the global economic climate. Two headline events — Pitti Uomo in Florence from June 17 to 20 and Milan Fashion Week Men from June 20 to 24 — will lead the charge, both spotlighting Spring/Summer 2026 collections and drawing international attention. This season’s highlights include fashion icons Issey Miyake and Paul Smith, whose participation brings added energy to the events.
The 108th edition of Pitti Uomo will welcome nearly 750 exhibitors, with 43% hailing from outside Italy. This figure is slightly down from previous seasons — 770 in January 2025 and 790 in June 2024 — but still demonstrates robust global interest. The event will feature a vibrant lineup of international showcases and creative initiatives. Tommy Hilfiger will make a notable return after an eight-year absence, presenting a fresh menswear project. Homme Plissé Issey Miyake, acting as the guest of honour, is among the key attractions.
Unlike the previous edition, which featured only two guest designers, this summer’s Pitti Uomo will introduce four. Italian designer Niccolò Pasqualetti will join forces with South Korea’s Post Archive Faction (PAF) and Japan’s Children of Discordance, in addition to Issey Miyake.
The event will further boost its global scope with several curated segments: Code Korea (organized with the Korea Creative Content Agency), Scandinavian Manifesto (in partnership with Copenhagen’s CIFF), and J Quality (celebrating Japanese craftsmanship). China Wave, a showcase selected by the Chic trade show and China’s National Garment Association, will also take part, as will a strong contingent of Spanish labels supported by ICEX. Twenty-five French labels, mainly supported by Promas and DEFI, will complete the international portfolio.
Pitti Uomo will also revisit the theme of sport with its second Becycle exhibition — a nod to the cycling industry — launched in June 2024. Brands such as Colnago, Passoni, Ashmei, and Pas Normal Studios will take part. Becycle will integrate with Pitti’s revamped ‘I Go Out’ section, which is focused on contemporary outdoor wear and gear.
Milan Fashion Week Men, while slightly subdued in tone due to ongoing geopolitical and economic pressures, will still host 81 events. These include 44 presentations, 17 special events, 15 runway shows, and five digital streams on the closing morning of June 24. Major Italian powerhouses like Dolce & Gabbana, Giorgio Armani, and Prada will appear on the calendar, but Zegna will instead present its collection in Dubai, while other brands defer their menswear reveals to September’s mixed-gender shows.
Several key emerging names — including Magliano, which will present a film in lieu of a runway show, JordanLuca, and Indian designer Dhruv Kapoor — will be absent this time. Nevertheless, the Milan schedule is bolstered by four fresh additions. British designer Paul Smith will skip Paris this season in favour of showcasing at his Milan showroom on June 21.
Other newcomers include Setchu, the label by Japanese designer Satoshi Kuwata, winner of the 2023 LVMH Prize, which will kick off the week on June 20. Fiorucci, a heritage Italian brand undergoing a revival, and Qasimi, helmed by UAE-born Hoor Al Qasimi, will also debut on Milan’s menswear calendar.
The lineup also sees the return of notable designers and labels. Vivienne Westwood will hold a presentation, while Spanish designers Miguel Vieira and David Catalán are slated to show on Monday, June 23. That same evening, French designer Emma Rowen Rose will unveil her first menswear line under the Rowen Rose label with a baroque-chic runway show.
Closing the week with flair, Milan Fashion Week will feature celebratory events, including a party for Dsquared2’s 30th anniversary and Jacob Cohen’s 40th. These festivities, along with the dynamic blend of legacy names and new talent, aim to keep Milan vibrant before the fashion spotlight shifts to Paris.
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