As the Spring/Summer 2026 menswear show season approaches, the fashion world finds itself at a pivotal crossroads. Marked by creative transitions, unexpected absences, and bold new debuts, this season arrives wrapped in anticipation. While some fashion giants are stepping away from the runway spotlight, others are stepping up to redefine their visions and set a new tone for menswear.
Several heavyweights will be missing from the SS26 menswear calendar. Fendi has decided to forgo Milan Fashion Week, instead planning a co-ed presentation in September. Gucci is also absent as it navigates a transitional period of studio-led collections, paving the way for newly appointed creative director Demna. Zegna, breaking from the usual fashion capitals, will showcase its SS26 menswear collection in Dubai on 11 June. Loewe, now under the direction of co-creative directors Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, is expected to reserve its big debut for September.
These notable absences speak to a broader shift in how brands are rethinking the traditional show formats, choosing more flexible and strategic approaches to their presentations.
Among the most closely watched changes is Jonathan Anderson’s move to Dior Men. After 11 years as the visionary at Loewe, Anderson takes the reins at Dior Men, succeeding Kim Jones. His highly anticipated debut collection for Dior will premiere in Paris this June.
Anderson’s final Loewe collection for Autumn/Winter 2025 was a fitting swan song—rich in surrealism, craftsmanship, and conceptual design. Presented in the historic Hôtel de Maisons, the show transformed the venue into a 17-room immersive experience, complete with installations by artists Anthea Hamilton, Zizipho Poswa, and Yoshihiro Suda. This unforgettable send-off cements Anderson’s legacy at Loewe, while setting the stage for his next chapter at one of fashion’s most iconic houses.
Pitti Uomo, running from 17 to 20 June, will see HOMME PLISSÉ ISSEY MIYAKE step into the spotlight as a guest designer. Known for its blend of quiet innovation and technical elegance, the brand’s participation highlights its growing global strategy and commitment to engaging new audiences.
This showcase aligns with the label’s broader vision—drawing from Issey Miyake’s legacy while reinterpreting modern menswear through movement, texture, and form. Pitti Uomo also spotlights two rising talents this season: Niccolò Pasqualetti, the Tuscan-born 2024 LVMH Prize finalist renowned for poetic deconstruction, and POST ARCHIVE FACTION, the Seoul-based collective lauded for its sculptural, conceptual menswear.
In another exciting development, legendary British designer Paul Smith will debut at Milan Fashion Week Men’s on 21 June. The Spring/Summer 2026 collection will be presented in an intimate setting at the brand’s showroom on Viale Umbria.
Earlier this year, Smith offered a unique design experience in Paris—a guided walkthrough of his previous collection inspired by his father’s photography, set in a recreation of a darkroom. Whether or not he returns to the Paris runway in January 2026, Smith’s hallmark “classic with a twist” aesthetic continues to influence and inspire.
In a significant off-calendar move, the British Fashion Council has cancelled the June edition of London Fashion Week. Instead, efforts will pivot toward commercial support through the London Show Rooms showcase, which will take place in Paris from 26 June to 1 July. This strategy reflects a practical shift toward promoting British talent in a more commercially focused environment during the Paris fashion cycle.
With creative reshuffles, global shifts in presentation, and fresh talent stepping up, the SS26 menswear season promises to be anything but predictable. From Jonathan Anderson’s Dior debut to HOMME PLISSÉ’s artistic Pitti Uomo moment, the menswear scene is entering a dynamic new phase. Despite some iconic names stepping back this season, the runways—and the conversations around them—are more vibrant and transformative than ever.
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