The slow fashion industry has faced significant challenges in recent years, with many brands that focused on sustainability and ethical practices struggling to maintain profitability. Brands that prioritized fair wages, sustainable fabrics, and small-batch production to minimize waste have been hit hard by rising production costs and shifting consumer priorities. Among the casualties over the past year alone are well-known names such as Ilana Kohn, Wray NYC, Alder Apparel, Ana + Zac, and Esby Apparel.
Despite the broader slowdown, Montreal-based Eliza Faulkner has defied the odds, experiencing record growth and increasing sales. The designer’s floaty, feminine designs, made with natural fibers and sewn locally in small batches, have found their way into Free People and Rent the Runway, alongside her own boutique in Montreal’s Mile End neighborhood. The brand is expected to surpass $1.2 million in sales this year, a nearly sevenfold increase since 2020, and is poised to turn a modest profit.
Faulkner’s success lies in her commitment to letting the designs speak for themselves, rather than relying on the typical sustainability narrative. Since founding her brand in 2012, Faulkner has built a loyal following of customers who are drawn to her unique aesthetic. As Emma Kent, an Ottawa-based YouTube creator and devoted fan of the brand, puts it, “Her clothes make you feel like the coolest girl on the street.” Kent notes that Faulkner’s designs blend joy and playfulness with practicality, striking a balance that appeals to many.
Alongside Faulkner, her partner and CEO, Arin Gintowt, has taken a cautious approach to scaling the business. They have grown steadily, avoiding outside investors and prioritizing long-term stability. The couple even reduced production at one point to safeguard against potential financial strain in an unpredictable market. Their careful strategy is now paying off, as they prepare to launch a capsule collection with Quebec’s Simons department store and open a second location in Toronto.
Faulkner’s journey began in humble surroundings, operating her brand from a ping-pong table in her father’s living room on Vancouver Island. With a $15,000 line of credit co-signed by her mother, Faulkner embarked on a mission to design clothing that was both sustainable and stylish—a departure from the eco-friendly garments available at the time, which she described as “very greige.” Over time, Faulkner honed a signature look of dreamy dresses with delicate details, such as puffed sleeves and Peter Pan collars, all while ensuring that the garments remained easy to wear and comfortable for her customers.
In 2015, Faulkner relocated to Montreal to be with Gintowt and began renting a shared studio for $150 a month. The city’s low rent and vibrant creative scene, bolstered by government grants for fashion designers, made it an ideal place to grow the brand. In 2018, when Faulkner had her first child, Gintowt took a paid paternity leave and joined the business full-time, bringing their child to the studio while Faulkner continued her design work. This period was pivotal for the brand as Gintowt also pursued an economics program at Concordia University, using student loans to support the growing business.
The brand’s first big leap came in 2019 when Faulkner decided to reduce prices by 20-30 percent in an effort to attract more customers. The strategy proved successful, with sales doubling to $60,000 that year. At the same time, Faulkner was pregnant and still sewing every garment herself. In 2020, with the rise of the “cottagecore” trend during the pandemic, Faulkner’s whimsical designs became a hit on platforms like TikTok, and sales tripled to $180,000. As a result, the couple was able to pay themselves a modest salary.
In 2021, the brand’s growth continued with sales nearly tripling again to $450,000, followed by a jump to $630,000 in 2022. The brand’s commitment to sustainability remains strong, with production still based in Montreal and a focus on minimizing fabric waste. They have worked with local small factories to produce their garments and use excess materials to create other products like napkins and scrunchies, with plans to explore creating paper from fabric scraps.
Gintowt has also launched a new venture called Canflax, aimed at rebuilding the linen industry in Quebec. Their goal is to create the first “farm-to-closet” collection in North America, addressing gaps in fabric traceability and sustainability.
Despite the broader slowdown in the slow fashion industry, Eliza Faulkner has remained steadfast in its approach. The brand’s success is largely due to its ability to offer something different from its competitors. Instead of rushing to meet demand through mass production or seeking outside investors, Faulkner and Gintowt have maintained a steady pace, focusing on quality over quantity. As Gintowt observes, many brands in the industry were overly optimistic, producing large quantities and overextending themselves. This has resulted in several companies shutting down as consumer interest in sustainable fashion wanes.
Faulkner’s designs appeal to a diverse customer base, from younger shoppers attracted to the brand’s playful mesh crop tops to older customers drawn to its dramatic, voluminous dresses. Many customers return because they appreciate the quality and the way the garments make them feel. In contrast to the “high-quality basics” that dominate the slow fashion market, Faulkner’s garments stand out with their feminine, unique details, which have earned her praise from both customers and critics alike.
As the brand continues to grow, Faulkner and Gintowt are focused on scaling sustainably. They have expanded their business steadily without succumbing to the pressures of mass production, and they are now exploring new opportunities in markets outside the U.S. While their revenue has surpassed $1 million annually, they remain cautious, ensuring that any growth is in line with their values.
Looking ahead, Gintowt and Faulkner are contemplating the next steps for their business, including securing outside investment to support their expansion. However, they are committed to maintaining their artisanal approach and staying true to their vision of creating meaningful, high-quality products. For Faulkner, the future holds the potential for further creative expansion, with dreams of designing handbags, shoes, and lingerie.
As the slow fashion industry faces ongoing challenges, Eliza Faulkner stands as a testament to the power of patience, thoughtful growth, and staying true to one’s values.
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